Jack Hennessy offers Wild Turkey Cooking Tips for the Holidays in “Braising the Wild”

WILD TURKEY COOKING TIPS FOR THE HOLIDAYS Every turkey hunter has had the vision: a perfectly roasted wild turkey laid out as the centerpiece, flanked by stuffing, candied yams, mashed potatoes and all the other classic holiday fixings on the family’s best ornate tablecloth. It’s a sight to behold. Now let me take a metaphorical pin and pop that thought bubble, because it ain’t happening. Nevertheless, I still see pseudo-professional wild game chefs posting photos of wild turkeys roasted whole and I can’t help but wonder what was the dental bill for the poor soul who tried gnawing through those legs. Here’s the thing (and if you’ve read my column in the past, you probably know many of these points): wild birds don’t have the fat content domestic birds do. And their hard-working muscles (such as legs and wings) are chock-full of collagen, which hardens when cooked at high heat. The differences between a wild bird and a domestic one are night and day in most cases. Still, there are ways to cook and enjoy a wild turkey, and below I break down how to do so. BUTCHERING AND BRINING Your best bet for a flavorful, great-tasting bird is butchering and brining versus roasting whole. I can’t stress enough how much I discourage roasting whole under any circumstance. I suggest butchering so the thighs, legs, wings, breasts, and tenderloins are separated. You can of course save the neck and giblets too. Brine these parts for 8-10 hours with the following ratios: gallon of cold water with 1/2 cup each of non-iodized salt, sugar, black peppercorns; and whole bulb of garlic (smashed), 6 ounces fresh ginger (smashed). Thoroughly rinse off brine and pat dry before cooking. THIGHS, LEGS, AND WINGS Wild turkeys rely heavily on these muscles to survive. These aren’t pen-raised birds that walk 2 feet to feed. Some of these birds travel miles for breakfast then water and have to stay agile to avoid predators. These muscles are lean and, as mentioned, contain high levels of collagen. Low and slow are the key steps here. Braising is a great technique for these cuts. A brief sear to brown all sides followed by a low simmer in liquids such as chicken or turkey stock or even a marinara sauce or the like for a few hours until the meat is tender are great options. For these parts, you have to remember this key fact: collagen will harden at high temps but turns to gelatin over time at low temps. Have patience and know that any tough cut will yield tenderness if allowed time. Follow the low and slow method with these harder-working cuts and any recipe you employ will work. BREASTS AND TENDERLOINS Tenderloins are indeed the most tender part on a bird and they are tucked behind the breast, closest to the keel bone. They are technically separate from the breast so won’t cook the same. They should be cut away and enjoyed separately. On a large tom, they can be as big as a pheasant breast. Because a wild turkey’s breast is so large and so very lean, it is my recommendation that, at the very least, it should be butterflied and tenderized with a meat mallet. Some wild tom breasts have been the size of my face. I cut them into smaller pieces, otherwise, cooked whole, the outer layers would have tasted VERY dry once the inner-most portion reached 160. Some of the best wild turkey I ever made was wild turkey kabobs because the smaller cubes prevent the breast meat from drying out. Keep this fact in mind when cooking your wild turkey breasts.