Last fall, chef Zoe Schor announced plans to close Split-Rail, the West Town restaurant she opened in 2017. Ardent customers and neighbors bemoaned the December shuttering of the queer-friendly eatery known for upscale fried chicken and biscuits.
“People were coming in and crying and saying how much they loved us,” she recalled.
Schor was moved by the show of emotion for the restaurant that sits above Dorothy, her 70s-inspired lesbian bar. She wasn’t sure what was next, but knew “definitely not another restaurant.”
Whitney LaMora, her wife and Split-Rail co-founder, had an idea for the site’s next incarnation: Chicago’s premier queer events venue for weddings, anniversaries, birthdays and other life milestones. But the vision could only be realized if they raised $75,000 through a Kickstarter campaign.
Schor and LaMora began the fundraiser in February, unsure whether they would meet the goal. Days before the Feb. 29 deadline, they exceeded it by more than $5,000 with 202 backers pledging $80,160. Schor expects the venue, called Villanelle, to open in May and its first event — a graduation party — is already scheduled.
The name Villanelle refers to the French poetic form. “It has a beautiful ring to it,” Schor said. “It’s a simple form of poetry. It feels uncomplicated but beautiful.” She added that the name Split-Rail was inspired by a simple type of fence, which symbolized returning to simplicity.
The pair are now preparing to redesign the Chicago Avenue space that was once a doughnut factory. In a nod to the name’s origin, the decor will be inspired by Paris, where the couple spent their honeymoon last year. The venue will incorporate French aesthetics, with the vibe of brasseries and flower motifs for freshness.
Surrounded by community
It’s an unexpected pivot for business owners who were ready to step away from the nonstop high wire act of running a restaurant. Financial struggles, unpredictability, labor issues and all-around stress only intensified since the COVID-19 pandemic. “We didn’t want to work so tirelessly to make ends meet,” Schor said. “It became untenable.”
Hosting events seems to offer more stability and predictability, and a viable alternative to Split-Rail. Their downstairs bar, Dorothy, is staying put. Running a bar is much simpler than a restaurant, which involves food prep and storage and managing more staff.
Villanelle also has a strong mission. There are many queer-friendly spaces in Chicago, but Schor said a dedicated queer-owned and operated place is unique and needed. “It’s a special experience to know you are fully surrounded by your community,” she said.
Its Kickstarter stated: “Our hope is that there are many people within Chicago and throughout the Midwest who would prefer to hold their life events in a queer space. ... It is no longer enough to be in a space that tolerates who we are. We deserve spaces wholly created for us, and tailored to us as people.”
Villanelle will have capacity for about 100 people. The roughly 3,000-square-foot space will have the ability to be divided for both large ceremonies and small receptions.
It will offer in-house catering from Split-Rail’s menu, which offers a range of options from fried chicken to French bistro fare. Schor, a James Beard regional finalist and self-described “passionate biscuit maker,” will also work with clients on customized menus.
Schor has done stints at fine dining restaurants such as Craft in Los Angeles and Bouchon, chef Thomas Keller’s French restaurant in Beverly Hills. She moved to Chicago to join DMK Restaurants and open Ada Street in Noble Square, where she won accolades, including three Michelin Bib Gourmands, according to Chicago Gourmet. After opening Split-Rail, she earned a semifinalist nomination for the James Beard Award for Best Chef in the Great Lakes Region and appeared on the food reality TV show “Chopped.”
Schor said Chicago’s smaller but superb neighborhood restaurants are more appealing to her than celebrity chef culture. And the city’s down-to-earth vibe and welcoming community is what the Boston native loves about Chicago.
“What’s kept me here is the community and the restaurant community in particular,” Schor said.
She reminisced about fun social events and fundraisers like the Chef Paddle Battle ping pong tournament and Meals on Wheels Gala. In other cities, the restaurant and culinary industry tends to be competitive and self-interested. But in Chicago, “everyone is so nice and embracing. Everyone is so open and they offer to help each other.”
That supportive community also came through for Schor and LaMorta, giving life to their next endeavor Villanelle. “It was an incredible outpouring,” Schor said.
