There’s a new hot dog stand in town.
Modern Relish has replaced Duk’s Red Hots — the latter a beloved community staple for almost 70 years — in West Town.
At 88, the founder of Duk’s, Mervyn Dukatte, still owns the building, but all operations are now the responsibility of Modern Relish business partners Anthony “Tony” Pagliuca and Angela Villanueva. It’s their first joint venture into the food industry.
Longtime Duk’s manager Carol Chavez — still the friendly face behind the counter — is helping lead the rich corner of history at Ashland and Erie into a new era.
With new digital signage, a grab-and-go cooler, and an ADA-compliant restroom, Modern Relish is open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. until March, when they hope to extend hours for breakfast.
They’ll sell wine and beer —contingent on food sales— once the city approves a pending liquor license application. Pagliuca noted that they’ve had discussions with the Chicago Grand Neighbors Association and Ald. Daniel La Spata (1st) to make sure the corner remains family-friendly.
Ray White, an employee at the Department of Family and Support Services building nearby, said that when he started working there in September he wandered out for lunch one day and could identify the smell of burgers coming from Duk’s.
“I thought I found something. But everybody at the department knew about this place, and I started coming every other day,” White said. “It’s been amazing. I got the last bit of this transition into the new ownership, [and] I know they’re gonna do an amazing job.”
Mickey Jackson, an educator who works nearby, has been coming to the restaurant for the last five years at least three times a week during her lunch hour.
“I just love the environment. I love the workers, the food, and the environment. I have no complaints. They’ve been good to me,” Jackson said.
“I like it,” she said of the renovations. But, she said she’s most looking forward to the warm weather so she can eat outside.
Pagliuca said the makeover includes an expansion of the outdoor patio. There will be approximately 86 seats outside, and they plan to hire at least a half dozen employees.
Modern Relish will continue to welcome neighborhood dogs outside, too.
Pagliuca, from Pilsen, is a licensed architect. He previously worked for McDonald’s for nearly 20 years, designing restaurants and traveling around the world. That’s where he met Villanueva, who works as an attorney.
“The last few years I’ve been thinking about how I’ve always wanted to own a restaurant,” he said. “And last year I said [to Villenueva], ‘You know, if we’re gonna do it, let’s do it now.’”
They spent some time looking at several potential locations before Duk’s came along. “A perfect fit,” Pagliuca said. “That’s how we moved into it so quickly.”
With dozens of hot dog stands across the city, each with its own reputation and history, Pagliuca knew they could transform Duk’s by mixing the old with the new.
Keeping core items like hot dogs, hamburgers and fries was a given. But other items like fried fish and shrimp needed to go, Pagliuca said.
Villanueva’s son Brandon Villanueva works alongside Chavez as operations manager. She’s taught him everything he needs to know about the restaurant side of things, he said.
“It’s fun to come here. I get to hang out with Carol all day,” he said, chuckling. “Get to learn some new words.”
Chavez said that she feels “stress-free” in this new phase of the restaurant. She has consistent days off and a company credit card for the first time.
“I got so many workers that I don’t know what to do,” she said with a grin.
