Most Chicagoans don’t have to watch the hit Hulu series “The Bear” to appreciate how difficult it is to keep a family-owned restaurant afloat, especially when money is tight and the world is slowly trying to emerge from an unprecedented health crisis.
No food-related business, no matter the size — diners, trendy dive bars, upscale hot spots — was left unscathed from the pandemic. Many city establishments were forced to close.
Recovery has been hardest for the Ma-and-Pa joints that help our neighborhoods shine with their character, charm and sometimes stained menus that can satisfy gourmets or those who just want a quick bite after a hectic day.
Eliminating the so-called “subminimum wage” for tipped workers could add to that strain for many of these smaller restaurants.
Of course, paying restaurant workers the standard minimum wage of $15.80 is better than the current wage of $9.48 for tipped workers. Yes, Chef. There is no argument there.
We get the fact that there may be some restaurant owners who haven’t been making up the difference if their staff don’t receive enough tips to earn that higher figure, which they are required to do by law.
The “One Fair Wage” campaign and others point out that by taking the subminimum wage off the menu, it will help workers survive and can reduce wage inequities among people of color and women.
But in these challenging times for the restaurant business, which is so important in our city, not every business can afford the higher pay overnight. Or even two years from now.
It is an encouraging sign that negotiations are continuing over how long Chicago restaurants should have before phasing out the lower wage, even though an ordinance has been proposed with the 24-month deadline.
“Communication and education” is key, Illinois Restaurant Association President Sam Toia told us, rightly stressing that the city must proceed with caution before issuing its final mandate.
“The big boys and girls in the Central District can figure it out,” Toia said. ‘What I’m concerned about is the neighborhood restaurants.”
We are, too. Without those one-of-a-kind gems, Chicago loses a key ingredient in what helps us stand out as a top culinary destination.
Subminimum wage will likely become a thing of the past at some point.
To get there, Chicago should keep taking baby steps so that every restaurant gets a fair shake.
The Sun-Times welcomes letters to the editor and op-eds. See our guidelines.
